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Messages - dHuGo

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16
Here comes a video with best explanation of a slap I've ever seen:


17
Doumbek Advice, Tips Questions & Lessons / Re: Tuning Question
« on: September 23, 2019, 08:30:30 AM »
Hi, I have not seen yet, what you describe here. - I'd prefer a drum with flush skin anyway. What means the shell should have an leveled edge on the top. It seems to me that your drum might be finished not the best way. - What I mean is a manufacturing fault which harmed a part of that edge, and they have grinded it down about those 2 mm to do a new contour!

But I understand you have no distortions in sounds?! Skin is tight all over the rounding? - It might be ok than, skin seems to be stretched in limits, and Remo skins usually are longlasting ones. - But I would avoid to put a GEF skin on, because they don't stop stretching: With your configuration there should be at least two sections, where skin could be overstretched before time!

With this drum you can do all at the edge in the 3/4-flush-part, so I would hold the 1/4-dipped-part on my knee while playing.

Lose skin will cause distortion, don't losen it, ok!? - Tuning depends on the number of screws you have. With a 6-screws-system one or two screws may fall in that 1/4-sector.

Anyway, with a new skin I'd start from the pair of screws on flush side wich's nearest to dipped side both. They mark the line, where skin is fully to stretch. Level pitch on both ends of that line. Then level pitch on the opposites and all screws in between too, if they are. That is main area to get best sound possible. The more pairs of opposite screws fall in that region the better. You should get same pitch beneath all of those screws. The other opposite pair(s) tune from dipped side to flush side. Seek a tone with a slightly lower to main pitch on flush side and than tune it up with dipped side screws. Finetuning provide on flush side again. - That should be most careful way, not harming skin more than needed.

Take notice the last lines stay less stretched than others. - When you feel skin stretches by time you may do same procedure from the end because all of your reserve is here - and by the way look for a new skin...

18
Doumbek Advice, Tips Questions & Lessons / Re: Malfouf
« on: September 13, 2019, 06:12:51 PM »
LOL

Let's start from the end: Your P.S. - Why not?!

When you're able to articulate your sounds properly and provide smooth playing around some variations no one would blame you.

The point is that students drill a Ka similar to Tak on Darbouka from the beginning. Doum and Slap with weak hand is master class. So it cannot be wrong what you're doing.

19
Darbuka Sound & Video Clips / Re: Oud, Ney, and Darbuka
« on: September 07, 2019, 06:33:29 AM »
yes, some years ago, when we went to Cappadocia in our holidays - there they were noodling "Gülümçan" everywhere anytime … so I met Çetiner Müzik and I loved it! - They have a lot of CD with instrumentals or ambient style music, some you can find on the YouTube channel too. And hopefully you may order something on it's website. The pity is, I've never yet heard Darbuka in those tunes, all traditional percussions is with framedrums, I think so…
Other "uncommon" (for us only) instruments are Duduk, Kanun, Saz, Kamancha … that's what I know.

20
Darbuka Sound & Video Clips / Re: Oud, Ney, and Darbuka
« on: September 03, 2019, 02:43:29 AM »
Hi, due to our holidays here's a brief report to your posting only:

Look
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYSRvTbNM8xH9lIOYBnkIS46cdGTcBQys

It's the very purists version of those instruments and unlikely not that common arrangement you might expect.

Another option:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLsEY5OL8nDLG_7N3aVzsGBdL4leCIwGtn

See you …

21
Doumbek, Darbuka Lovers / Re: Egyptian style vs. Turkish style darbuka
« on: August 19, 2019, 03:23:33 AM »
Hello dears,
nice to see your lovely comments. - Yes, I like my drum, since I did my first steps in Darbouka playing on it. I think I had lot useful experience of. As very lightweightened thing it tended to go away under my heavy Conga-like strokes. I had to do a lot adjusting my playing position all time and learning to play from the wrists (and all that Snap-stuff too)!

So, bsfloyd, when I hear, you can play over the edge without problem, I'm glad - you got it already, position and doing all from wrists. Respect!

drtom, I'm not looking for a new skin now for some reasons:
1. Tuning system. Rings of casted Aluminium aren't plane. It didn't matter a lot, when I divided Doums and Taks only. But now I've hold much better drums and like modulations of my tones. - I'm looking for a method leveling the rings!
2. Skin is still good. - I'd prefere to have a spare, so the measures are 20,4 cm the inner diameter 21,6 cm the outer one. Total height is about 15 mm (after some years), the pressed ring has 7 mm. Thanks for any advice!
3. I'm thinking on trying something new. I've heard some guys prefare X-ray-films on Bongos as the Macho's head. I'd like to do something like this with my Darbouka!
4. Priority is on learning to play my Riq now. Since I'm not professional I can do only a few exercises a week. ...and the Riq has endless possibilities to taste...!!!

22
Doumbek, Darbuka Lovers / Re: Egyptian style vs. Turkish style darbuka
« on: August 10, 2019, 03:12:10 AM »
Hi bsfloyd,
I like your optimism - but really - you - married - that hits my world!

To the topic:
I remember a lot of those arguments from time when this forum started.  You may use search button to get some idea.

Me, you can see my Turkish beauty on my Avatar pic at the left. It's absolutely light weighted Aluminium shell. My wife and me, we much like the original engraved ornaments - this masterpiece of handicraft only was worth the whole price ... a fistful of Euros ... ;) Unfortunately I hold it unscrewed now, because I couldn't get new replacement skin in Istanbul last year. They told me, that's an old unusual size. Actually I have one skin left, but I'm afraid that I should not go to break it next time!


23
Nice, the truth is I'm used to tune my Sombaty every time.
1st a Microdoum (with one finger) in center of skin. If that sounds good it's all ok.
2nd Otherwise I hit the rim middle between two screws to find in wich place distortion actually is.
3rd Same over related two screws. I losen a bit that with higher pitch.
4th Same procedure from 1st point until it works, most time one screw only is to tight.

24
Skin looks fine - that makes me happy.  Probably its overstretched a bit in one direction. In that case you need to stretch it again but slightly.

First, when you put a Remo skin on your drum do the gap of the ring in the middle between two screwholes.Start screwing from opposite site and tighten those two screws beside the ring gap one after the other to avoid bad tensions while of first contact. When plate is tight over skin it doesn't matter a lot.

Wich tuning system do you prefer: "going arround periphery" or "cross over"?! - Since the skin isn't that new, I'd do it cross over now, it's more accurate. Level the plate and tighten the skin until you can get a first sound from it. Then let it rest for a while.

Thereafter you 1st should level the plate by sounding. That I may explain next time.

25
Hi Oz, unscrew the head and have a look at skin. The ring arround isn't closed, there should be a gap. Look wether the glue is ok at weak place.
About year ago I'd had same problem: The glue was there broken and I had to change skin again.

@bsfloyd, a GeF?!? - So you made it...! :)

26
Sorry, bsfloyd, I'm going to sleep now.... :)

27
about speed:
Do base first. When you have the base stable increase the speed. Then you may slow down an do a (filled) variation with (more and faster) ornaments. when it's going stable increase speed. etc

The rule is do simple first, speed it up and thereafter do it more complicated, speed up ...

But using a metronome makes sense rather when you have to do longer part with complex phrases .
Base and simple variations you should drill itself: You may start with a speed, you feel  comfortable with. After every 4th repetition you do a little step to more speed. When you feel discomfort stop it and begin same from your most comfortable speed again.

Another option is to do a "pyramid". That mean you start with a pattern, i.e. the Maqsoum. very slow. After 1st measure you should double speed and play it twice, therafrer double again and play it twice and twice (actually four times). You may try to double it again, but mostly two steps are fast enough. After the fastest part, don't stop but begin with the slowest again. Every part takes same time, what developes your inner feeling of speed.

28
If you have a measure of 4/4 and count then 4 downbeats every beat belongs to one quarter. Hence metronome's actually counting downbeats.

Me, I'm engineer myself too, I had some of those cunfusions in terms too and for years. I had an idea in my head, that "beat" is on every 1st count, the "pulse" should be the 4 quarters an wondered about some continuous "ripple " filling the gaps....! ;)

Terminology on rhythms isn't that consistent like in technology.: With a 4/4 measure we have a main beat (or "the beat"), what means the 1st beat in measure. Same time it is the 1st of all 4 downbeats (or simply "the beat") marking the quarters. Every downbeat is followed by an upbeat (when downbeats are called "beat", upbeat is named "offbeat"), but actually offbeat is a term to claim the eight pulses between 4+4 down- and upbeats. Whole scheme is the pulse, so a 4/4 time signature usually has a 16/16 pulse:

1 - + - 2 - + - 3 - + - 4 - + - |

1 - is the main beat; numbers 1 to 4 are downbeats; the + are the upbeats and all that - is the offbeat.

Something like this...

29
We should further stop a bit on beats-pulses-thematics to complete, but I 'd like to clear up all that what I was talking about first and not to confuse you more than appropriate.

30
You should agree with, that those point of view may touch mostly professional and advanced players. From your asking I understand that your problems mainly is in choice of a moderate speed to learn and how to adjust a metronome as a beginner.

So we are counting quarters as usual. 100-120 might be to fast for training, I'd do it with 50-80 until you can hold the speed for a continuous playing of about 10 minutes. Only then I'd try to increase it in steps by 10+ up to the original speed.

With an mechanical metronome every beat is a quarter. All subdivisions you make in your mind. Electronic metronome can play you a whole time signature with a different sound for main beat.

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